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Frequently Asked Questions

Frequently Asked Questions:

 

What is involved with an organic lawn transition?

           It is simply a reduction or elimination of chemical fertilizers, herbicides and pesticides that are applied to your lawn, then using different practices that improve the soil health of your lawn so it grows well.  The soil is naturally feeding the grass instead of the grass being chemically dependent when the soil is deprived.

 

What are the disadvantages of reduced chemical applications?

          You will not see instant results, and it takes more attention to reduce the number of weeds until the turf is strong and healthy.  Chemical applications are easier initially than organic practices.

 

Why are there not more businesses promoting organic lawn care?

          Once a lawn is less chemically dependent there is less work to do as the lawn is sustaining itself better.  Chemical treatments provide attractive ongoing work for the business. 

 

Can a lawn sustain itself without any chemical fertilizer?

          They can.   Returning clippings to a lawn instead of removing them helps provide nitrogen and nutrients to the soil.  Compost or organic fertilizers can be applied if needed to help the soil and turf get healthy and sustain themselves.  Mowing at a higher cut height and more frequently helps the turf have more sunlight and shade out weeds.  Keeping the mower blades sharp helps the grass take less nutrients to heal itself. Aeration helps the soil and the plants grow more easily.

 

 

What about Clover?  Why do I seem to see more of it today?

          Most selective herbicides kill clover.  Clover, if allowed to grow will fix nitrogen from the air and provide it as a nutrient to your lawn.  It is low maintenance and because it is deep rooted will stay green longer during droughts. Clover will naturally grow in lawns if they are not chemically treated.  

 

How can I tell if my lawn is compacted?

A simple test is to take a #2 Phillips screwdriver and attempt to push it into the lawn with 2 fingers. This should be done when the soil is not excessively wet or dry.   If it is difficult to push in 3 inches deep that is a good indication the soil is compacted and core aeration will help your lawn. 

 

What is the relationship between aeration, overseeding and topdressing?

 

While best results are achieved with a combination of them, Aeration helps compacted soil and breaking through thatch layers, overseeding helps to introduce new seedlings that may be better suited for that lawn, and topdressing provides organic matter to help soil better sustain healthy turf.  Aeration before topdressing allows some of the compost to work into the soil.

 The rule of thumb is if over 50% of the lawn is good it can be renovated without starting over.  However if the drainage is good a combination of these practices can provide good results with less than 50% good turf remaining.  The addition of sod cutting out bad spots and topdressing or levelling may reduce the cost of a lawn restoration. 

                

  What about sod vs. seeding?

 

          Sod is great way to quickly install or renovate a lawn.  One caution is that if the current grass is troubled, the replacement with sod may go the same way over time.  Make sure the soil supporting the turf or new sod provides a good growing opportunity. 

 

What about Raised Garden Beds vs. tilling native soil?

 

          Raised beds make it easier to maintain the bed and keeps the foot traffic out of the plant area.  If the native soil is not good for gardening, a 4’x 8’ x 1’ deep raised bed will take 1 ¼ yards of soil, and you can select a good soil mix for the bed.  If you are growing deep rooted plants, the area below the bed can be sod cut and tilled to allow more rooting area.   

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